Watch Crystals���
The crystal refers to the glass that is used in the watch.� There are three main types of crystals that are used in watches:���
(1) Plexi/Acrylic - this is a fancy name for "plastic".� It is highly shock absorbent, and the least likely to break/crack out of the three types of crystal.� Unfortunately it's strength is also it's weakness - a plexi crystal scratches easily.� Plexi is also very cheap - a standard replacement should only be around $15.���
(2) Mineral - more scratch resistant than Plexi, but can break.���
(3) Sapphire - virtually unscratchable, but can break if it receives a very hefty shock.� It is also substantially more expensive.� Most luxury watches will have sapphire crystals.�

Bracelets, Clasps & Bands���
I personally prefer bracelets to leather bands.� Leather ages/degrades faster, and feels less secure.� Plastic/Nylon bands are even worse - and don't allow your wrist to breathe.� The bracelet should have reasonable gaps between the links so that it doesn't pull hairs.� And reasonable gaps also allow your wrist to breathe more.� Most clasps perform their function adequately, but my favourite would have to be the latest Omega Seamaster which has a small push-button safety clasp, and is constructed from solid metal.� Titanium is an excellent material for watches - especially sports watches - it is reputably very strong, and much lighter than stainless steel.���

Movements���
"Movement" refers to the main "time keeping" mechanism inside the watch.� A watch manufacturer makes their watches by either:�
(1) buying a standard movement from another company (e.g. ETA), and then they usually re-furbish/modify the movement to suit their particular needs; or��
(2) manufacture the whole movement "in-house".�
A watch based on a standard movement is more likely to be repairable locally - and at cheaper cost.� However, this is also a "collecting" hobby - so rarity & individuality is important.�

Finishing��
"Finishing" refers to the presentation, attention to detail, and final touches that the manufacturer has done to the watch.� It can also refer to the different surface textures that have been applied to parts of the watch (e.g.. polished or brushed).� In most high end watches the connoisseurs pay close attention to the details of the finishing of the movement.� This even goes as far as alignment of screws and the consistency in the depth of the engraving.� It DOES sound like "nit picking", but in general, the quality of the finishing is reflected in the accuracy and reliability of the watch.� As far as external finishing of the watch case & bracelet - I prefer a polished finish.� The polish shows scratches, but "ages well".�

Dial & Hands��
The dial & hands are the most important part of the watch - since they are the markers which you use to read the time of day.� The hands & markers should stand out on the face so that you can see the time at a glance - even in bad light.� An excellent example of this is Omega's Speedmaster Professional. A shiny metallic dial usually adds more reflections - and so makes it more difficult to see the hands.� I prefer a sweeping, centrally located seconds hand rather than a small seconds hand located on a sub-dial.� This is simply because I think that the dancing movement of a mechanical seconds hand is one of it's greatest assets and I find it positively mesmerizing.� Especially when compared to the "quantum" style of movement of quartz watches.� A quartz watch makes me feel as if nothing exists during a second - and that time is continually jumping to the next second instantaneously.� Time doesn't move in "quanta" (discrete jumps) - it flows like a mechanical watch seconds hand.��

Accuracy��
If you know your watch like the back of your hand (hah!), then you will know how to keep it very accurate.� The accuracy of a standard mechanical watch is known to vary with how the watch is treated.� The watch should generally be fastest when positioned horizontally with the dial up.� And its performance will probably slow by varying amounts depending on whatever other position you may put it in.� With a bit of devotion you can track the performance of your watch in the different positions - and then devise a routine to keep your watch at close to perfect time.� To do this you will have to do some groundwork - spend some weeks comparing & writing down how much the watch has gained or lost overnight, and at the end of the day.� You will then learn how to make your watch gain/or lose time.� If your watch loses 5secs after 14 hrs on your wrist during the� day, then you may be able to correct that by positioning the watch so that it gains 5secs each night.� Your final routine may be something like (1) wear the watch to bed every second night; or (2) leave the watch dial up each night.� If the watch performs too wildly to be able to use this method - then you should probably consider getting it serviced, or regulated.�
My watch was generally averaging +1 to +2 seconds per day - that means a maximum of a couple of minutes fast per month.� So I don't even bother with a routine - I'll just adjust it every couple of months.�
Watches that have a Chronometer Certificate have passed stringent tests to ensure that they conform to defined limits of accuracy no matter what position the watch is in.����
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